Mafia is a low, unhurried island off the coast south of Dar es Salaam, where life revolves around the sea. A large area of its waters and shoreline is protected in the Mafia Island Marine Park, which was set up in 1995 as Tanzania's first marine park and covers 822 square kilometres, more than three-quarters of it under water. Visitors come for whale sharks, reefs, turtles and a slower pace. It suits divers, snorkellers and anyone who wants a beach stay with more to do than lie in the sun.

What you will see

Whale sharks gather off Kilindoni, on the west side of the island, and most are young males that return year after year. The season runs from about October to March, peaks around December and fades to almost nothing by March. You meet them by boat and slip into the water to snorkel alongside, following the crew's briefing on keeping a respectful distance. On the other side of the island, the reefs of Chole Bay offer diving and snorkelling in water that stays between 25 and 29 °C all year.

Green turtles nest on Juani Island all year, with a peak in April and May; hatchling trips are seasonal, so ask us about timing
Chole Mjini: old stone ruins on a small island across the bay, wrapped in fig roots
Kua: the remains of a town sacked by Sakalava raiders in the 1820s
Dhow trips: sailing out to sandbanks for snorkelling and lunch

When to go

For whale sharks, come between October and March, ideally around December. The reefs and the warm water are good in any month, and turtles nest year-round. Sea conditions vary with the monsoon winds, and our Tanzania weather guide gives a fuller picture of the coast through the year.

Getting there

Light aircraft fly from Dar es Salaam to Mafia in about 30 minutes, with Auric Air and Coastal Aviation among the operators. If you are coming from the north, connect through Dar es Salaam on the same day.

How it fits your trip

Mafia is a fine place to recover after a Kilimanjaro climb: warm water, short boat rides and nothing that has to be rushed. It pairs naturally with a safari in Nyerere or Ruaha, as light aircraft link the southern parks with the coast. History lovers can add the ruins of Kilwa Kisiwani further south. Allow at least four nights if whale sharks and diving are both on your list, so the weather has a chance to cooperate.

Where to stay

Lodges are mostly small and close to the water, and diving and snorkelling trips are easy to arrange. The mood is quiet and barefoot rather than resort-style. Send us your dates and we will time your stay around the whale shark season.